Chowin' down in Chile

As I have been back from my Chilean adventure for about three weeks now, I realize this post is long overdue. For roughly two weeks after I returned everything I ate in the states was mildly depressing. That's how wonderful the cuisine of this South American country treated me.


I fell in love with how this country eats at my first meal when one of the many toast condiments served to me at breakfast was the a dulce de leche type spread called Manjar. This creamy, milkly caramel spread was so good that I snuck a jar of it back on the plane with me. However, it's apparently simple to make by slow cooking condensed milk, a recipe I have every intention of trying soon.




My friend Dominique, who I've known since probably fifth or sixth grade was my tour guide as she has been living in Chile for the summer. I flew in to Santiago, but we soon headed to the port of Vailpairaso, where seafood is king and the vino tinto is cheap. At a rusty looking restaurant called La Playa we dined on fresh seafood. I opted for the fillet and ensalada, while Dominique ordered Chupe de Jaibas, a casserole made out of crab cakes. It is a classic Chilean dish that unfortunately I didn't indulge in, damn you crab allergy!

Filet con Ensalada of Avacado, lettuce, cabbage and potato salad

Chupe de Jaibas

Later we drank Chilean wine and went out for pisco sours. 


On our last night in Valpo, during a quick jaunt through the city we stopped and sampled sopapilla, which is basically fried bread. For a mere 30 cents, these little guys hit the spot. People line up left and right for one, dress it with hot sauce, ketchup or mustard and go on their merry way.

While our dining in Santiago and Pucon was enjoyable, the real treat came upon arrival at el Campo, or Rodrigo's farm. As a whole hearted advocate of local eating my last two days on the farm outside of Temuco were a dream come true. Breakfast consisted of eggs from the family hens, fresh baked bread made from wheat that Rodrigo's family grows on their land and local cheese.

The first night we arrived we ventured out in the truck to hunt for rabbits. Rodrigo drove, with a shotgun across his lap as Dom and I kept our eyes peeled for movement and cotton tails darting through the bushes. After a few failed attempts, Rodrigo jumped out of the truck on the dirt road and HIT..we got one. We took it back to the house, where he showed me how to skin the rabbit, which you have to do right away or else the skin sticks. It was surprisingly not very bloody. We let the rabbit soak in vinegar over night, which gets the grassy taste out. We cooked it in pig lard the next day, which produced a tender and meatier than any rabbit leg I've been served in a restaurant, earthy but not gamey.

Dominique and Rodrigo taught me all about eating off their land and how all the farmers share with neighbors for their local goods. Just weeks ago they killed and ate a pig from a neighbor. We ate more fresh bread with honey from combs that Rodrigo's family harvest next to their chicken coops. I told his mom about a recent article I read about New Yorkers harvesting honey on apartment rooftops in Brooklyn and she was astonished about the safety of keeping bees so close. The honey was grainy and chunky, and delicious. It didn't have a floral taste or aroma like the wildflower honey you get in the states. I kept going back to the honey bowl so much they offered to let me take some home. 

After a two day tour of the farm, including an early rise to feed the cows, horesback ride and walk through neighboring pastures, I spent my last night in Temuco enjoying an Asada of sheep ribs with Rodrigo and his brothers and sister who were visiting. The night, which included many bottles of vino tinto, piscos and cokes and this lovely array of appertifs was the perfect end to my Chilean culinary experience. 

I can't wait to go back!